Switching to LEDs: need some advice


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I'm in the process of slowly replacing my light bulbs with LEDs. Replacements for some bulbs (B22, E27, GU10 bulbs in open fixtures) were no problem, but I'm unsure about several types.

The primary issue is suitability: I've read that LED bulbs suffer from poor heat dissipation, thus are unsuited for enclosed fixtures unless the bulb is 'enclosure-rated' (non rated bulbs are subject to shorter life spans and other problems in enclosed fixtures). I have yet to see (in any store or online) any LED bulb that actually is labelled for use in enclosed fixtures; staff at places like B&Q are clueless; and I am thinking that I might need to replace fixtures (but wish to avoid this, as I'm currently skint).

Any advice on what might actually work in these fixtures would be appreciated (photos attached):



  1. B22 bayonet bulb for bathroom ceiling fixture (currently 100W incandescent!)
  2. 8x G4 capsules for dining ceiling fixture (2 photos, currently 10w halogens in small enclosures). I have been told by a lighting professional (installer) that capsules are already designed to handle heat, and this should not be an issue. I don't know if he meant LEDs as well as halogens.
  3. GY6.35 capsules (4x desk lamps), both dimmable and non-dimmable needed (currently halogens). Two have a glass cover for the bulb; the other two are open (so enclosure is not an issue for the latter)
  4. G13 T8 tube (currently 58W 5200 lumen fluorescent, about as efficient as LEDs (lumens/watt)!). I haven't seen any T8 LED tubes as bright (lumens) as this one, so am thinking they might not exist and that I should just stick with a fluorescent until such time as I redo the kitchen lighting.



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Yes they are incandescent (just like me most of the time), an incandescent lamp is one with a filament (usually tungsten) that glows brightly when current is passed through it. The fact that it happens to have halides in the gas envelope does not change that.
The reason the leds might not work properly is the output characteristics for the current are totally different, the halogen may be driven at 50% and produce 30% of it's output whereas the led at the same current may produce 80%. The only way to find out is to try it.

schase;32700:
The existing bulbs are HALOGENS (12v), not incandescents. Some of the listings online promote them for desk lamps, but the way these lamps work (hi/lo) might not be suitable for these type of LEDs. I might need to take a lamp into a specialty lighting store to get a proper answer (if I'm lucky and find one with knowledgeable staff).
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The existing bulbs are HALOGENS (12v), not incandescents. Some of the listings online promote them for desk lamps, but the way these lamps work (hi/lo) might not be suitable for these type of LEDs. I might need to take a lamp into a specialty lighting store to get a proper answer (if I'm lucky and find one with knowledgeable staff).

woz;32693:
I very much doubt that the dimmable leds will work in the same way as the existing incandescents. My guess is that they may dim VERY slightly.
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hi
Don't let that put you off. I only suggested that supplier because they had the quantity and price that suited. It's unfortunate but I'd try a b+q one or use ranpo if they have a suitable one - I think the ranpo ones were multiple leds rather than C.O.B types, but that shouldn't matter as long as the size is OK.
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An update on my G4 LED saga:

The bulbs clearly did not live up to their advertised description.

I managed to get a substantial refund from the eBay seller and get to keep the bulbs! A little bit of negotiation with the seller, but less hassle for both of us than returning them. I'm out of pocket £2 for 8x LED bulbs that were not suitable for my chandelier, but might serve in some other fixture (or I'll take them to the local swap shop).

I've pretty much given up on finding LED replacements for this fixture:

  • I've found very few G4 LEDs small enough to fit (~30mm length).
  • Those that fit are not bright enough

    • The advertised 180lm for the purchased bulbs should have been sufficient, but they are not that bright
    • A couple of others I've found of the suitable size are both significantly more expensive and with an advertised intensity that is also not bright enough.



schase;32178:
Update on the G4 LED capsules. Still looking for advice; the discussion gets a bit technical...

I purchased the G4 capsules @woz had suggested (link here). They arrived very quickly, but are clearly dimmer than the halogens they are replacing, and too dim to use (I even used an iPhone app that gives some rough info on the lux). I don't know why this is the case, but posit some ideas below.

Note that the existing halogens are a combination of

  • the original IKEA bulbs purchased with the fixture in 2009 (which I assumed were 100lm, 10w; now think they might actually be brighter)
  • Diall bulbs purchased in 2016 from B&Q: 100lm, 10w, 2700K (they actually appear slightly dimmer and/or warmer than the IKEA bulbs)

The fixture currently operates with no dimmer, but the illumination is OK with the halogens.

The LEDs purchased (image uploaded) are supposed to be:
12v, COB, 3W, 180lm, warm white (2700-3200K), dimmable

Possible reasons for the difference in illumination:

  • Cheap manufacture
  • Not what was ordered (there's nothing on the packaging and bulbs that shows wattage or lumens)
  • dimmable LEDs perhaps are dimmer unless one uses a dimmer switch?


The capacitors on the LEDs appear to be model 156E, with the second line varying: N133K, N133P, N133U (perhaps a manufacturing batch #?).

Not fit for this purpose; I might try returning them, but am unsure about replacements (thus far I've only found one other LED that would fit (link); lower output and more expensive, but closer to the expected cost).

If I pursue this, should I forget about dimmable bulbs; consider cooler bulbs; higher lumens? I might just need to stick with the halogens until such time as the figure is replaced, as G4s short enough to fit into this fixture (about 30mm total) are rare :-(

2397
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I very much doubt that the dimmable leds will work in the same way as the existing incandescents. My guess is that they may dim VERY slightly.
schase;32690:
Another question with regard to dimmable LEDs (GY6.35 capsule replacements):

Two of the lamps I hope to install LEDs in are desk lamps with hi/lo intensity switches that currently have GY6.35 capsule halogens (12v, max lamp wattages are 35W and 50W, respectively). Would a dimmable LED be OK for these lamps? There seem to be plenty available online. If they work, the trick is to get ones with the right lumens output (can't tell this from the existing halogens, but possibly 750-900+ lumens, based on some Amazon listings).
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hi suz
​As said you may need to change the dimmer, it depends on 2 things, is the dimmer the correct technical type and how many lamps are on the circuit. You didn't say when I asked, but there is more chance of it working the more lamps there are.
Suz;32672:
Thank you so much everyone for your replies, and for keeping it simple for a non technical person like me. I hadn't heard about switchable dimmer bulbs before, sounds like this might work. I would rather this then replace the dimmer switches.
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Another question with regard to dimmable LEDs (GY6.35 capsule replacements):

Two of the lamps I hope to install LEDs in are desk lamps with hi/lo intensity switches that currently have GY6.35 capsule halogens (12v, max lamp wattages are 35W and 50W, respectively). Would a dimmable LED be OK for these lamps? There seem to be plenty available online. If they work, the trick is to get ones with the right lumens output (can't tell this from the existing halogens, but possibly 750-900+ lumens, based on some Amazon listings).
Hey Richard,

That "system" sounds fantastic.... but a little expensive. If cost hadn't been a deciding factor when I changed over to LED's then that's the route I think I would have gone down.
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If you buy a dimmable LED first try it with your existing dimmer switch. If it works, fine. You will know if it is not going to as the light will come on or flash when the switch is off. If it is a switch controlling several lights in a room then you need to change all bulbs to LEDs as if all are changed again you might find the switch is fine. OK I am being technical but the reason is a dimmer switch is not an on/off switch and when you think it is off there is still power in the circuit and as an LED needs so little power it is often sufficient to light it. But not several LEDs at once.

There is a better solution but it is not the cheapest. Have all switches just normal on/off switches and invest in Philips Hue bulbs. You can dim them from your smartphone or tablet and change colours. Philips also do a dimmer switch that is compatible with their bulbs. It is a remote switch. I find this system gives much better control. Routines can be set up to bring lights on or off and you don’t need to use the light switch. Tell Siri or Alexa what you want and the appropriate lights come on at the chosen colour.
Thank you so much everyone for your replies, and for keeping it simple for a non technical person like me. I hadn't heard about switchable dimmer bulbs before, sounds like this might work. I would rather this then replace the dimmer switches.
Hi Suz,

Dimmable LED bulbs require an appropriate (LED compatible) dimmer to operate. Your current dimmers will need to be replaced for the dimmable LED bulbs to operate.
There is another option however, I have replaced all my incandescent bulbs with LED'S. I purchased some that are switchable dimmer bulbs. The LED'S have 3 output settings that is switched by repeatedly operating the switch..... when switched once... max output,
when switched a second time... reduced output, when switched for a third (and final) time.... minimum output. These bulbs are a little bit more expensive (but not much) It's an alternative to the higher cost of replacing your existing dimmers. Worth thinking about in my opinion.
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hi Suz
You can get dimmable leds for most types of incandescent lamps (unless they are obscure ones) but a word of caution about the dimmer which may not work with the dimmable leds. You said not to get technical so I won't! You may need to replace the dimmer.
Again, without getting technical, what kind of lamps are the existing, (and do you know what wattage they are?) if you don't know the type post a photo or a weblink to the same type.
Suz;32587:
Interesting read about LED's. I have some lamps in my house which are connected to a dimmer switch on the wall. Can I get dimmable LED's. A simple but not to technical answer would be appreciated. Thanks
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Hi Suz,
A simple answer yes you can get dimmable LED's, but make sure you read the description as not all LEDs are clearly marked, they are also a little more expensive
Interesting read about LED's. I have some lamps in my house which are connected to a dimmer switch on the wall. Can I get dimmable LED's. A simple but not to technical answer would be appreciated. Thanks
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now i feel guilty, the ones I ordered exceeded my expectations, 100 lumens (halogens) isn't much even with 8 of them it would be equivalent to a 60W incandescent, so I'm thinking maybe it is wrong. When I looked the ones I found were rated at 130lm, but since the ones you ordered were supposedly more I didn't think it would be an issue.
Just out of curiosity try them one at a time to see if all the same. Also do you have a car battery charger?
Warning don't handle the glass envelopes of the halogen lamps with your fingers, you'll contaminate the glass.
I ordered mine from ranpo link HERE I know those shown are a different type HERE (I think it's the same seller?)
If they aren't as bright something else is wrong. They should be at least as bright as the halogens. Try them on a battery charger. I assume they are AC or DC, if they don't illuminate turn through 180 deg
B&Q sell led ones rated at 180lm they do a 100lm one too.
The emitters on those in the photo looks small cf the b&q ones...

schase;32178:
Update on the G4 LED capsules. Still looking for advice; the discussion gets a bit technical...

I purchased the G4 capsules @woz had suggested (link here). They arrived very quickly, but are clearly dimmer than the halogens they are replacing, and too dim to use (I even used an iPhone app that gives some rough info on the lux). I don't know why this is the case, but posit some ideas below.
I hope you can send them back...if not as described.
​Have you got more clearance for longer ones?
Note that the existing halogens are a combination of

  • the original IKEA bulbs purchased with the fixture in 2009 (which I assumed were 100lm, 10w; now think they might actually be brighter)
  • Diall bulbs purchased in 2016 from B&Q: 100lm, 10w, 2700K (they actually appear slightly dimmer and/or warmer than the IKEA bulbs)

The fixture currently operates with no dimmer, but the illumination is OK with the halogens.

The LEDs purchased (image uploaded) are supposed to be:
12v, COB, 3W, 180lm, warm white (2700-3200K), dimmable

Possible reasons for the difference in illumination:

  • Cheap manufacture
  • Not what was ordered (there's nothing on the packaging and bulbs that shows wattage or lumens)
  • dimmable LEDs perhaps are dimmer unless one uses a dimmer switch?


The capacitors on the LEDs appear to be model 156E, with the second line varying: N133K, N133P, N133U (perhaps a manufacturing batch #?).

Not fit for this purpose; I might try returning them, but am unsure about replacements (thus far I've only found one other LED that would fit (link); lower output and more expensive, but closer to the expected cost).

If I pursue this, should I forget about dimmable bulbs; consider cooler bulbs; higher lumens? I might just need to stick with the halogens until such time as the figure is replaced, as G4s short enough to fit into this fixture (about 30mm total) are rare :-(

2397
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Update on the G4 LED capsules. Still looking for advice; the discussion gets a bit technical...

I purchased the G4 capsules @woz had suggested (link here). They arrived very quickly, but are clearly dimmer than the halogens they are replacing, and too dim to use (I even used an iPhone app that gives some rough info on the lux). I don't know why this is the case, but posit some ideas below.

Note that the existing halogens are a combination of

  • the original IKEA bulbs purchased with the fixture in 2009 (which I assumed were 100lm, 10w; now think they might actually be brighter)
  • Diall bulbs purchased in 2016 from B&Q: 100lm, 10w, 2700K (they actually appear slightly dimmer and/or warmer than the IKEA bulbs)

The fixture currently operates with no dimmer, but the illumination is OK with the halogens.

The LEDs purchased (image uploaded) are supposed to be:
12v, COB, 3W, 180lm, warm white (2700-3200K), dimmable

Possible reasons for the difference in illumination:

  • Cheap manufacture
  • Not what was ordered (there's nothing on the packaging and bulbs that shows wattage or lumens)
  • dimmable LEDs perhaps are dimmer unless one uses a dimmer switch?


The capacitors on the LEDs appear to be model 156E, with the second line varying: N133K, N133P, N133U (perhaps a manufacturing batch #?).

Not fit for this purpose; I might try returning them, but am unsure about replacements (thus far I've only found one other LED that would fit (link); lower output and more expensive, but closer to the expected cost).

If I pursue this, should I forget about dimmable bulbs; consider cooler bulbs; higher lumens? I might just need to stick with the halogens until such time as the figure is replaced, as G4s short enough to fit into this fixture (about 30mm total) are rare :-(

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@G4RHL, yes, LED strips instead of a fluorescent tube--except when that tube is the kitchen ceiling light :)

Some of the (hidden) fluorescent lighting in our synagogue sanctuary has been replaced with LEDs; I'm now hoping we'll start switching the rest as finances dictate (but it's virtually all of the lighting, so no small job and low on the priority list).
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You can use an LED strip instead of a tube if the light is an under unit one. Whilst I have led tubes under units in my kitchen I do have in use elsewhere a Phillips Hue LED strip which you can either stick in place, it has a sticky back if you want to do it that way, or fix it in another way. The light is fine and colours can be changed. It does of course take up less space. I would only do this when I knew it was out of site as the bare strip is not attractive to look at but it was never so intended but to be part of concealed lighting.
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I don't think the extra lumens on the g4's will be an issue at all.

​The fluoro radiates at 360 degrees whereas the led tubes are directional so they aren't directly comparable. That's one of the reasons some manufacturers quote their led tubes to be equivalent to a 58W even though the total lumen output is lower. I suspect you'd be more than happy with a led tube HOWEVER in terms of payback, in your case I don't think there is a compelling case because fluoro tubes are still very cheap and still very efficient,(although not great environmentally as they contain mercury, but then all sorts of stuff has had to be mined/manufactured to produce a led tube). Also it depends on how many hours a day it's on. (With fluoros there is some degradation of light output over time, but the bigger factor determining the life is how often it's switched on and the type of ballast)

I think this is one of those opportunistic cases where if you happen to be somewhere you can buy one at a reasonable price and return it if not happy, give it a go. As far as I know a 5ft tube is the same as a 1500mm, measure from pin-end to pin-end, I haven't checked if it's exactly 1500mm, but I'm not aware of any variations. If unsure measure yours and check the led is the same length, (I'm sure it will be).
schase;31446:
​Thanks, @woz, for all of your suggestions.

WRT the G4, yes, the dining fixture is 12v (purchased at IKEA 10 years ago). I will check out your link (the capsules would just fit in the enclosure). The lower wattage one (3W) provides almost twice the output (180 lm) than my current halogens (10W, 100lm). Of course, if they're too bright, I could just put in half of the 8 bulbs the fixture takes--although it might look a little funny ;-)))

WRT the tubes, I believe I had seen the B&Q, Screwfix, and plenty of other tube listings, but had not considered them, as the rated outputs for all are around 2000-2400 lumens, less than half of that of my current fluorescent tube. This concerns me, and will require further investigation: is the light output measured differently for LED tubes than fluorescents? I might consider buying one if they do have a return policy, as you mention. Will need to check if tubes listed as 5ft, 1500mm, 1514mm, and 1524mm are actually the same size (I would guess the difference might be down to how the manufacturer measures).
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​Thanks, @woz, for all of your suggestions.

WRT the G4, yes, the dining fixture is 12v (purchased at IKEA 10 years ago). I will check out your link (the capsules would just fit in the enclosure). The lower wattage one (3W) provides almost twice the output (180 lm) than my current halogens (10W, 100lm). Of course, if they're too bright, I could just put in half of the 8 bulbs the fixture takes--although it might look a little funny ;-)))

WRT the tubes, I believe I had seen the B&Q, Screwfix, and plenty of other tube listings, but had not considered them, as the rated outputs for all are around 2000-2400 lumens, less than half of that of my current fluorescent tube. This concerns me, and will require further investigation: is the light output measured differently for LED tubes than fluorescents? I might consider buying one if they do have a return policy, as you mention. Will need to check if tubes listed as 5ft, 1500mm, 1514mm, and 1524mm are actually the same size (I would guess the difference might be down to how the manufacturer measures).


woz;31413:

​Regarding the kitchen lamp -Link- there are lots of T8 1500 (5ft) led tubes, my guess is a 24W would be as good as if not better than the existing fluoro. B+Q & Screwfix have a return policy, not sure if it applies to lamps but you could try one and return it if unhappy. Lumens aren't everything, fluoros flicker especially when cold, and they take a long time to get to full brightness from cold. They are available cheaper trade, but postage kills it. B+Q one looks ideal 24W, 4000K, but the Screwfix one is cool white though.(search it)

Re the G4's, are you sure they are 12v (I did ask earlier I know), does that mean there is a transformer inside the fitting? It doesn't look like a 12V fitting to me.
THESE would fit, there are other sellers, they work out at just over £1 each (if 240v then HERE or HERE)
Fantastic post @schase
I've moved this to our 'all about renewables' section and pinning it to the top :foldedhands:🆙
This will be really helpful to anyone considering LED lightbulbs.
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hi Schase
I've read your conclusions.

​Regarding the kitchen lamp -Link- there are lots of T8 1500 (5ft) led tubes, my guess is a 24W would be as good as if not better than the existing fluoro. B+Q & Screwfix have a return policy, not sure if it applies to lamps but you could try one and return it if unhappy. Lumens aren't everything, fluoros flicker especially when cold, and they take a long time to get to full brightness from cold. They are available cheaper trade, but postage kills it. B+Q one looks ideal 24W, 4000K, but the Screwfix one is cool white though.(search it)

Re the G4's, are you sure they are 12v (I did ask earlier I know), does that mean there is a transformer inside the fitting? It doesn't look like a 12V fitting to me.
THESE would fit, there are other sellers, they work out at just over £1 each (if 240v then HERE or HERE)


schase;31411:
I made the original post to stimulate discussion and clarify my thinking on this issue--not as straightforward as one would expect, given the hype. My conclusions:


  • For some fixtures, there are no ideal LED replacements. Manufacturers haven't produced suitable bulbs, e.g. not suitable for enclosed fixtures; too big for some fixtures; or no LED equivalent for the existing bulb type.
  • LED capsules are larger than their halogen equivalents, so finding suitable replacements can be difficult, particularly if the bulb is in a small space.
  • You can try using non enclosure rated bulbs in enclosed fixtures, but there's no guarantee how long they might last. This might not be any issue, or could depend on how long they are switched on at any one time.
  • It's also important to consider how much any one lamp is actually used (I'm a minimalist in this regard, keeping most lights switched off at any one time). For some of my fixtures, it's probably cheaper to continue with existing bulbs (until they fail) than spend money I don't have to replace the entire fixture with one that takes LEDs.

My specifics: I am so miles away from even considering some of the new technology (e.g. hues, remote control, dimming). I don't need dimmable bulbs except for two of the desk lamps (hi/lo switches).


  • Bathroom B22: in the absence of an enclosure-rated bulb, I'd go with a std non-enclosure rated bulb and hope for the best
  • Dining G4 capsules: very hard to find any LED bulbs that might fit the small enclosures (enclosure rated or not). I'll keep looking...
  • Desk lamps GY6.35 capsules: there are a handful of LED replacements; similar issues as with the G4, but larger spaces for the bulbs
  • Kitchen G13 T8 fluorescent tube: no LED replacements for the tube yet found. Given the energy efficiency of the existing tube, I'll stick with this until it's time to remodel. The current tube's specs are OK (4000K, 5200 lumens or whatever it actually is); it could actually be a tad brighter or perhaps cooler (but not daylight). There are LED equivalents of this fixture (cf @Lenny), but the bulb is integrated, i.e. when the bulb fails the entire fixture must be replaced.

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woz;31410:
I agree about the heat from halogens, particularly MR16's.
I don't want to sound picky here but a 3W led lamp, even the latest ones, don't produce the same light output as a 60W incandescent, nowhere near. (not even the high colour temperature ones which are more efficient).


No it isn’t I used the wrong figure, although it is surprising how one adjusts to light emitted. An 8 watt led is nearer the mark. My table lights have 9.5 watt Hue LEDs in them. This site may be helpful to readers.

https://www.ledhut.co.uk/blog/led-equivalent-wattages-against-traditional-lighting/

I do some voluntary work at our local hospice and not so long ago the reception area was completely redone. Some bright spark decided that two spot lights focussed on the name of the hospice on the wall behind the receptionist would be good. He put in two 60 watt LEDs!!! The tungsten equivalent is a massively power bulb! Sun glasses needed.
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I made the original post to stimulate discussion and clarify my thinking on this issue--not as straightforward as one would expect, given the hype. My conclusions:


  • For some fixtures, there are no ideal LED replacements. Manufacturers haven't produced suitable bulbs, e.g. not suitable for enclosed fixtures; too big for some fixtures; or no LED equivalent for the existing bulb type.
  • LED capsules are larger than their halogen equivalents, so finding suitable replacements can be difficult, particularly if the bulb is in a small space.
  • You can try using non enclosure rated bulbs in enclosed fixtures, but there's no guarantee how long they might last. This might not be any issue, or could depend on how long they are switched on at any one time.
  • It's also important to consider how much any one lamp is actually used (I'm a minimalist in this regard, keeping most lights switched off at any one time). For some of my fixtures, it's probably cheaper to continue with existing bulbs (until they fail) than spend money I don't have to replace the entire fixture with one that takes LEDs.

My specifics: I am so miles away from even considering some of the new technology (e.g. hues, remote control, dimming). I don't need dimmable bulbs except for two of the desk lamps (hi/lo switches).


  • Bathroom B22: in the absence of an enclosure-rated bulb, I'd go with a std non-enclosure rated bulb and hope for the best
  • Dining G4 capsules: very hard to find any LED bulbs that might fit the small enclosures (enclosure rated or not). I'll keep looking...
  • Desk lamps GY6.35 capsules: there are a handful of LED replacements; similar issues as with the G4, but larger spaces for the bulbs
  • Kitchen G13 T8 fluorescent tube: no LED replacements for the tube yet found. Given the energy efficiency of the existing tube, I'll stick with this until it's time to remodel. The current tube's specs are OK (4000K, 5200 lumens or whatever it actually is); it could actually be a tad brighter or perhaps cooler (but not daylight). There are LED equivalents of this fixture (cf @Lenny), but the bulb is integrated, i.e. when the bulb fails the entire fixture must be replaced.
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I agree about the heat from halogens, particularly MR16's.
I don't want to sound picky here but a 3W led lamp, even the latest ones, don't produce the same light output as a 60W incandescent, nowhere near. (not even the high colour temperature ones which are more efficient).
G4RHL;31381:
It is the halogen bulbs that have the heat issues and are dangerous. A colleague checked his recessed ceiling lights to find all the wires feeding each one were breaking down in proximity to the fixture due to the heat given off by the halogen bulb. He rewired and replaced with LED GU10s.

I have LEDs throughout. No problems with heat no matter what sort of enclosure they are in. The bulb is not too hot to hold when it has been on, unlike other types of old. They last a long time and yes when I first installed them a couple of years ago there seemed to be a drop in consumption. After all if a 3 watt led puts out the same light as a 60 watt tungsten there is bound to be a saving. Apart from a couple of lights where I cannot get a compatible Hue bulb to fit, all my bulbs are Hue bulbs. Not cheap but they are lasting well. Plus of course one can change the colours. Indeed there is an app that does this automatically to music. My grand children are in awe when I set the fireworks display running!

If a user has a dimmer switch make sure the LED bulb is compatible. With a dimmer switch there is constant power, normally at such a low level that the bulb does not light up but some leds will as they only need low power to start with. Until I changed my kitchen light switch from a dimming one to a normal on/off I Had to install a resistor in the circuit for under unit led strip lights for they would otherwise come in or start flashing.

- - - Updated - - -

Types of bulb.

There is a wide choice. I use G4 LEDS instead of the halogen ones. I think the g4s are horrible with their two prongs! But...

TAKE CARE with G4s though, some may not be 240 volt but look the same. My desk light needs a 12 volt for there is a transformer built into its base. My cooker hood lights looked very much like g4 12 volts. The description on them was so poor you could not read it. Err.... they weren’t 12 volt when I tried to replace one!

LEDs now come in all shapes and sizes. I just wish the Philips Hue range included the small golf ball bulbs. You should not find much problem finding equivalent replacement. An internet search brings up many suppliers.

Warm white I have found is better. The basic white can be a little harsh although you get used to it. It is why I went for Hue bulbs as they are controllable from an app, which also configures routines etc. Such is my laziness at night that nowadays I just say “Hey Siri, Good Night” and all my lights go off.

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