boiler advice

  • 8 March 2021
  • 9 replies
  • 60 views

Hi all, hope you are well.

I think the boiler is packing in ūüė© and we will have to bite the bullet and get a new one. This one is 20 years old.¬†Just wondering which is the best one to get and where from including warranty etc.¬†
We are 2 people in a 3 bed house.

Thank you for time. X


9 replies

It’s a fine question and Worcester Bosch have a good rep. I’d skip Vokera and surprisingly my Gloworm has been good.

But I’m sure others will chip in who maybe have better experience in this area. 

Do you fancy a heat pump maybe @Shelfy? They’re the future...

Intergas or Viessmann. Worcester Bosch to an extent try to be too clever, ‚Äúover engineered‚ÄĚ was the expression used by one installer who gets frequent call outs to them. Plus they are not as easy as others to service.¬†¬†Intergas have a patented system which most others want to have but there are a few years to go yet before the patent expires. Most say they get few call outs. It only has 4 moving parts. Viessmann have produced a highly rated boiler. Think¬†it is the Viessmann 2000.¬†

But the best advice I can give, and I must have bored the pants of other members on other postings with this,  is thoroughly read what the ladies on this site tell you - https://www.theheatinghub.co.uk 

You must also think how you wish to control it. It is not just the boiler.

But, your boiler may be 20 years old but if it still works it is more economical to keep it. Some so called experts will always try to persuade you to put a new boiler in. There may be no need at present. Mine after 23 years reached the end of its days recently, it really was a wheezing old boiler. I replaced it 4 weeks ago with an Intergas.

Take care, I know of one family who were advised to replace their boiler, the suggested alternative was quite inappropriate for the house they had. When they still had problems getting warm they were advised they needed to replace their radiators. So far they have spent about £9k I am told! Get to know what is out there, what size and type is needed, how they need to be tuned to maximise efficiency and then you will soon know if potential installers are up to it. One never sent me a quote nor replied to emails as I think I mistakenly asked him questions he could not answer but ought to have been able to.

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Hi all, hope you are well.

I think the boiler is packing in ūüė© and we will have to bite the bullet and get a new one. This one is 20 years old.¬†Just wondering which is the best one to get and where from including warranty etc.¬†
We are 2 people in a 3 bed house.

Thank you for time. X

@Shelfy 

it depends what you mean by packing in? What’s it doing or not doing?

The first part of the equation is to ask, when it worked did it do the job even when it was really cold?.. and what is the existing boiler rated at.  It’s likely you may (note may) be able to downsize the rating of the new one because efficiency has increased over the last 20 years.

Also as said, you need to look at your existing rad sizes and insulation and how you control your heating. 

The most popular makes may not be the best choice for absolute efficiency but it will be easier to find someone to service or repair in 10 years, so there is a balancing act here. 

Are you combi or do you store your hot water?

Have you seen this website

 

 

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You will also need to consider its location. 20 years ago you could plonk it anywhere and vent it anyhow. Now sadly you have to consider location v doors, windows, etc etc. This could have a severe impact on install cost. 

Indeed. Also you may find that whilst the gas pipe from the meter starts off at 22mm somewhere in the house it reduces to 15mm. Today’s combi’s require a 22m feed. If it is a system boiler (one with a tank) 15mm may well be adequate. Installers like to take the easy route which is not the one you want so watch this point. British Gas installed my neighbour’s new boiler about 3 years ago. They ran this unsightly pipe around the front of the house down the side and in to the utility room at the back. Others say you needs must put the new boiler in the airing cupboard. That is usually because the 22mm feed reduces down to 15mm under the floor in that area. Also because it is a little easier to tie in with the original pipework that is often there for the hot water system and heating. In my case I wanted the new one where the old one was, the utility room. I wanted the airing cupboard freed up as a storage cupboard and indeed still an airing cupboard. The 22mm gas feed terminated in the ceiling almost above the original boiler.

You can put the boiler in the loft but then that means an exhaust pipe up through the roof, as does putting it in the airing cupboard. If I had gone for a tanked system (unvented) then I would have been tempted to put that in the loft out of the way. It can go anywhere of course. Height does not matter for those.

Little things were some installers want the easy route and you don't realise. But is it the route or location that you want?

 

Wow. Thank you so much guys, I am pretty clueless about all of this so this is very helpful. I moved into a 1930s house a year ago, some rooms don’t particularly heat well but I think this is more to do with the windows ad the heat escaping.
Only after a few months we had Worcester called out as the boiler (28cdi) was leaking, he said it was approx 20 years old advised to get a new one. A year later - last month - there was an air flow flaut in which a plumber had to repair a new fan and now - a month from that - the pilot light keeps going off, on then off.

I will get reading the links you sent and start thinking what to do. The current boiler is in a cupboard on the 1st floor - we have a loft conversion - under the stairs. 

thank you for your help x

Do also consider balancing your radiators if some rooms don’t warm up. This is significant if the Rad in that room isn’t as hot as other radiators in rooms that do warm up.

Balancing means constricting (partially closing) the lock shield valve to leave more hot water flow available for the cooler radiators.

@Shelfy if you have nothing to do you can always check the size of existing radiators is right. I read advice on several sites that if one’s radiators are more than 15 years old when the boiler is replaced so should the radiators. This is not correct. Two who quoted for me when I mentioned it asked why. Advice was leave them alone and make a decision after the boiler is replaced and has been running. However, there are sites that help you determine the size of radiator needed for a given room, and indeed whether it is outside walls, is north facing etc. They give you the BTUs needed and the kWs. I had thought I ought to change my 23 year old radiators but I checked what I had and found only two radiators are under specified. Both are single panel radiators, one is a single panel convector. I will replace both with double panel convectors with the end result of them being greater in kW output than is needed but that is fine, they won’t cost any more to run.

Thank you so much for the radiator advice too, gosh a lot to think about. Can be quite overwhelming so thank you for the tips and directions to help. I will get reading about a boiler. X

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